Installing buffalo grass turf might seem like a straightforward task, but the difference between a lawn that thrives and one that struggles often comes down to installation quality. Having installed over 500 residential and commercial lawns throughout my career, I've seen firsthand how proper preparation and technique translate into long-term success. This guide shares the professional methods that will give your new buffalo lawn the best possible start.
Planning Your Installation
Before you order a single roll of turf, careful planning will save you time, money, and frustration. The best time to lay buffalo grass in most parts of Australia is during the warmer months from September through March, when soil temperatures promote rapid root establishment. However, with proper care, installation can be successful year-round in temperate regions.
Measuring and Ordering
Measure your lawn area carefully, including any irregular shapes. Multiply length by width for rectangular sections and use the formula for triangles (half base times height) for odd corners. Add 5-10% extra to your total to account for cutting waste and any damage during handling.
Order your turf to arrive on your planned installation day. Fresh turf establishes faster and is less likely to suffer heat stress. If turf must be stored overnight, unroll it in a shaded area and water lightly to prevent drying.
Standard turf rolls typically cover 1 square metre (1m x 1m or similar dimensions). For a 100m² lawn, order at least 105-110 rolls to ensure adequate coverage with minimal waste.
Tools and Materials You'll Need
Gather all necessary equipment before delivery day to ensure a smooth installation process:
- Essential tools: Sharp knife or turf cutter, rake, shovel, wheelbarrow, garden hose with sprinkler attachment
- Levelling equipment: Lawn roller (can be hired), straight-edged board or spirit level
- Soil amendments: Quality turf underlay soil, organic compost, gypsum (for clay soils), starter fertiliser
- Optional but helpful: Rotary hoe, turf lifting forks, knee pads for comfort
Site Preparation: The Foundation of Success
Thorough site preparation is the single most important factor in achieving a healthy, long-lasting lawn. Rushing this stage is the most common mistake I see in DIY installations.
Removing Existing Vegetation
All existing grass, weeds, and debris must be completely removed. For existing lawns, you have two main options:
- Herbicide treatment: Apply a glyphosate-based herbicide and wait 7-14 days for complete die-off. This method is thorough but requires patience.
- Physical removal: Use a turf cutter to strip existing grass, or remove it with a sharp spade. This is more labour-intensive but allows immediate progression to soil preparation.
Whichever method you choose, ensure all root material is removed or killed. Remnant weeds and grass will compete with your new turf and may push through, creating ongoing problems.
Never lay new turf directly over existing grass or weeds. The old vegetation will decompose underneath, creating air pockets and an unstable surface that leads to uneven settling.
Soil Assessment and Improvement
Once the site is cleared, assess your existing soil quality. Most Australian soils benefit from amendment before turfing. Heavy clay soils retain too much water and restrict root penetration, while sandy soils drain too quickly and struggle to hold nutrients.
For optimal results, incorporate these amendments into the top 100-150mm of soil:
- Quality lawn soil: Add 50-100mm of turf underlay soil across the entire area
- Organic matter: Well-composted organic material improves soil structure and microbial activity
- Gypsum: Essential for heavy clay soils to improve drainage and reduce compaction
- Starter fertiliser: A phosphorus-rich fertiliser promotes rapid root development
Use a rotary hoe to blend amendments thoroughly with existing soil. This creates a homogeneous growing medium that encourages roots to penetrate deeply rather than remaining in a surface layer.
Grading and Levelling
Proper grading ensures water drains away from buildings and doesn't pool on the lawn surface. Aim for a gentle slope of approximately 1-2% (a fall of 10-20mm per metre) away from structures.
After grading, rake the surface smooth to remove any stones, debris, or clumps. Use a lawn roller to consolidate the soil, creating a firm base. Walk across the area to identify any soft spots, and add soil as needed to achieve a uniformly firm surface.
The finished soil level should be approximately 25-30mm below adjacent paths and edging. This allows for turf thickness and prevents the lawn from becoming raised above surrounding surfaces.
Laying the Turf
With preparation complete, you're ready for the rewarding task of laying your new lawn. Work efficiently to minimise stress on the turf, especially in hot weather.
Starting Right
Begin along the longest straight edge, such as a fence line, driveway, or pathway. This establishes a reference line for the rest of the installation and ensures a professional-looking finish.
Unroll the first strip of turf along your chosen edge, pressing it firmly into the prepared soil. Ensure the turf sits flat without any air pockets underneath - these prevent root contact with soil and lead to dry patches.
Creating Strong Joints
When laying subsequent rows, stagger the joints like brickwork. This prevents continuous seams that can open up as the turf settles and reduces the risk of soil erosion along joint lines.
Push each piece firmly against its neighbours without overlapping. Gaps between pieces will dry out and may fail to fill in, while overlapping creates raised edges that are prone to scalping when mowed.
Cutting and Shaping
Use a sharp knife to cut turf around garden beds, trees, and other obstacles. A sharp blade produces clean cuts that heal quickly, while a blunt knife tears the turf and creates ragged edges.
For curved edges, make a series of small straight cuts rather than trying to force the turf around curves. This prevents stretching and ensures consistent contact with the soil surface.
Rolling and Watering
Once all turf is laid, use a lawn roller to press it firmly into the soil and eliminate air pockets. Roll in one direction first, then perpendicular to ensure complete contact.
Water thoroughly immediately after rolling. The soil beneath the turf should be moistened to a depth of at least 50mm. This initial deep watering is critical - turf that dries out within the first 24 hours rarely recovers fully.
Post-Installation Care
The first few weeks after installation determine whether your lawn thrives or struggles. Consistent attention during this establishment period is essential.
Watering Schedule
Maintaining consistent moisture is your primary task during establishment:
- Days 1-7: Water twice daily (morning and late afternoon) to keep the turf and underlying soil consistently moist
- Days 8-14: Reduce to once daily, ensuring deep penetration each time
- Weeks 3-4: Water every second day, encouraging roots to seek moisture at depth
- Week 5 onwards: Transition to a regular watering schedule of 2-3 deep waterings per week
Lift a corner of the turf periodically to check moisture levels. The soil beneath should be moist but not waterlogged. Adjust your watering frequency based on weather conditions - hot, windy days require more water than cool, overcast periods.
Stay Off the Lawn
Avoid walking on new turf for at least three weeks. Foot traffic compresses the soil and turf, preventing proper root establishment. If access is unavoidable, place boards across the lawn to distribute weight and minimise damage.
First Mow
Wait until the turf has firmly rooted before the first mow - typically 3-4 weeks after installation. Test by gently tugging on the grass; if it resists, roots have anchored successfully.
For the first cut, set your mower to its highest setting and remove no more than one-third of the leaf blade. This reduces stress on the still-establishing plants. Gradually lower the cutting height over subsequent mows until you reach your desired level (30-50mm for most buffalo varieties).
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even with careful installation, problems can occasionally occur. Here's how to address the most common issues:
Yellowing or Browning Patches
This usually indicates insufficient water reaching certain areas. Check that sprinklers are covering the affected sections and increase watering frequency. If patches are near trees, roots may be competing for moisture - water more heavily in these areas.
Gaps Opening Between Rolls
Turf naturally shrinks slightly as it establishes. Fill gaps with quality lawn soil and keep moist. The turf will spread via stolons to fill these spaces over the coming weeks.
Turf Not Rooting
If turf lifts easily after three weeks, the soil may be too compacted, too dry, or lacking nutrients. Increase watering, and consider applying a liquid fertiliser to promote root development.
Long-Term Success
A well-installed buffalo lawn should provide years of enjoyment with relatively minimal maintenance. Once established, focus on consistent mowing at the correct height, deep and infrequent watering, and seasonal fertilisation to maintain colour and density.
Remember that your lawn is a living ecosystem that responds to care and attention. The effort you invest in proper installation and early maintenance will be rewarded with a beautiful, resilient lawn that enhances your outdoor living space for years to come.